Msg. 41320 of 47202 (This msg. is a reply to
41220 by
Decomposed)
Jump:
De,
As I recall, with an arc welder you got that box
(and the one in the picture looks small compared to
the ones I've actually seen) and two what look like
jumper cables. One clamp goes on the metal to be
welded (like a ground) and in the other goes what
looks a little like clothes hanger wire coated with
a quarter inch or so of stuff.
You turn it on and put on the welding helmet (with a
very very dark eye shield) then 'strike' the end of
the rod against the work and it makes an arc like
you are shorting two electrical wires (which is what
you are doing).
The end of the rod melts from the current running
through it and you push this little puddle of molten metal
along . . . There is a LOT of technique to doing it
right so it looks pretty and holds the two pieces of
metal together.
By the way, the best welding helmets today are electronic.
You start out looking like you are looking through glass
(so you can see what you are doing) then as soon as
you strike that arc and start making an incredibly bright
little light where your 'portable lightning' is running
through the rod and the metal to melt the rod the glass turns very dark so all you see is just enough of
the bright light to see where you are welding (instead of burning your eyeballs out).
We have several welding machines at work (of at least two different kinds) but I never get enough time and
training to actually make use of them. (My welding attempts
look more like pigeon poop . . .)
Anyway, if the rod is wet the electricity won't flow
right . . it won't spark right . . won't weld right . . .
Also, when you say it's important to keep the rod dry... do you mean that if it wasn't kept dry, the unit might be ruined? Or are you just passing on an arc-welding tip to always keep the rod dry? I wouldn't know how to check on that particular problem...
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