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Re: Henri

By: Decomposed in 6TH POPE | Recommend this post (0)
Mon, 23 Aug 21 12:06 AM | 32 view(s)
Boardmark this board | 6th Edition Pope Board 		Msg. 22444 of 60008
(This msg. is a reply to 22434 by Beldin)
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Beldin:

Re: “I hear that some of the more daredevil surfers like to ride the waves right before a storm hits.”I worked on Oahu for a while, long hours, 7 days a week. When I finally got a day off I didn't know if I'd get another. I was determined to take advantage of it. I wanted to go surfing... well, boogie-boarding. I don't know how to do either, but riding a boogie board has got to be easier. Little kids do it.

I drove to North Shore, Sunset Beach, which is known for big 12' waves.

Trouble is, it was overcast and a major storm was blowing in. The waves were rough. A sign on the beach said something along the lines of 'enter at your own peril' but there were a few surfers out there... A lifeguard who saw me made a quick assessment and asked if I knew what I was doing. I lied of course.

So, I went in and got about 100 feet out before the first wave broke on top of me. That's really what it did. Rather than breaking in a long, predictable manner, these waves broke simultaneously across about 200 feet.

I was underwater for a good 20 seconds. All I could see was foam swirling in all directions and I couldn't tell which way was up. I *did* have a styrofoam board strapped to my ankle though, and I held onto it for dear life. It brought me back up. About the time I got a gasp of air, another wave sent me under again. I wasn't able to dive before the waves hit like you're supposed to.

I knew I was in over my head (ar ar ar) after the first hit, but every time my board took me up and I got a breath, down I went again. I hardly made any progress but EVENTUALLY made it out. I bet I was hit by 15 waves.. If I'd lost my board, I wouldn't be here today.

I finally made it out, about a quarter mile down the beach from where I'd entered. I saw the lifeguard had been watching me like a hawk.

I trudged back to my car and felt like I'd been through a war. I also felt like an idiot.

BTW. The waves weren't 12 footers that day. They were 20 footers.







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Gold is $1,581/oz today. When it hits $2,000, it will be up 26.5%. Let's see how long that takes. - De 3/11/2013 - ANSWER: 7 Years, 5 Months


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The above is a reply to the following message:
Re: Henri
By: Beldin in 6TH POPE
Sun, 22 Aug 21 8:59 PM 		Msg. 22434 of 60008

Zim sez ~ "By the way ... it might not be safe for me to bring that mermaid home ... but I'd hate to have had to
throw her back."

Yep. God was lookin' out for ya, my friend ... he didn't want to present you with a maddening dilemma that ya may have fried yer brain tryin' to decide. 

Wink

P.S. Did you see anyone trying to surf the waves? I hear that some of the more daredevil surfers like to ride the waves right before a storm hits. 

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