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Re: Henri

By: Zimbler0 in 6TH POPE | Recommend this post (0)
Mon, 23 Aug 21 12:12 AM | 24 view(s)
Boardmark this board | 6th Edition Pope Board 		Msg. 22445 of 60008
(This msg. is a reply to 22444 by Decomposed)
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I here ya De.
I do like to body surf. I tried it once in maybe six feet waves . . . It flipped me all the way over, head
over heels, wrenched my back and slammed me off the
bottom. I told myself 'lets not do that again.'.

I did body surf one wave today. But, they were
breaking too close to the beach and I did not want
to scrape my belly on the bottom.

Zim.




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The above is a reply to the following message:
Re: Henri
By: Decomposed in 6TH POPE
Mon, 23 Aug 21 12:06 AM 		Msg. 22444 of 60008

Beldin:

Re: “I hear that some of the more daredevil surfers like to ride the waves right before a storm hits.”I worked on Oahu for a while, long hours, 7 days a week. When I finally got a day off I didn't know if I'd get another. I was determined to take advantage of it. I wanted to go surfing... well, boogie-boarding. I don't know how to do either, but riding a boogie board has got to be easier. Little kids do it.

I drove to North Shore, Sunset Beach, which is known for big 12' waves.

Trouble is, it was overcast and a major storm was blowing in. The waves were rough. A sign on the beach said something along the lines of 'enter at your own peril' but there were a few surfers out there... A lifeguard who saw me made a quick assessment and asked if I knew what I was doing. I lied of course.

So, I went in and got about 100 feet out before the first wave broke on top of me. That's really what it did. Rather than breaking in a long, predictable manner, these waves broke simultaneously across about 200 feet.

I was underwater for a good 20 seconds. All I could see was foam swirling in all directions and I couldn't tell which way was up. I *did* have a styrofoam board strapped to my ankle though, and I held onto it for dear life. It brought me back up. About the time I got a gasp of air, another wave sent me under again. I wasn't able to dive before the waves hit like you're supposed to.

I knew I was in over my head (ar ar ar) after the first hit, but every time my board took me up and I got a breath, down I went again. I hardly made any progress but EVENTUALLY made it out. I bet I was hit by 15 waves.. If I'd lost my board, I wouldn't be here today.

I finally made it out, about a quarter mile down the beach from where I'd entered. I saw the lifeguard had been watching me like a hawk.

I trudged back to my car and felt like I'd been through a war. I also felt like an idiot.

BTW. The waves weren't 12 footers that day. They were 20 footers.





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