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Re: Bookshelves

By: De_Composed in 6TH POPE | Recommend this post (0)
Sun, 13 Oct 24 5:11 AM | 23 view(s)
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Msg. 59359 of 59728
(This msg. is a reply to 59358 by Zimbler0)

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Zimbler0:

Re: “Were those 8' boards two inches thick? Books are HEAVY and I'm not too sure pegs will stand up to the strain.”
Yes, the verticals are 2" thick. Indeed, books are heavy and over time they can make a shelf bow. I'm dealing with that by having the shelves be very short. I'm comfortable that four pegs will be able to support the weight of a short .75" shelf (with the depth varying from 4" to 8") and its payload of about twenty small paperbacks.Re: “Something else my Daddy told me a long long time ago . . The back of a bookshelf is where a LOT of the strength comes from. Strength to keep the shelves from bowing.”Makes sense. But my verticals will be bracketed onto every wall stud in three places. Wall studs are just 16 inches apart. That's not far. The shelves running from vertical to vertical will therefore be extremely short and the weight on them not great. I don't think there will be any bowing. Re: “The top three shelves are for paperbacks - eight inches tall. Besides the paperbacks there is an Analog Science Fiction from 1994 and they all fit nicely. The next shelf is ten inches tall and the bottom two are twelve inches tall. The three lower shelves are all a real 10" deep. (Custom cut at a place called Yukon Lumber. Mahogany.) The paperback shelves are all six inches deep.”Sounds like a real nice setup. How many books?Re: “I thought wall studs ran vertically?”They do. My verticals stand on the floor. The weight will be on them, not on the studs. The verticals will be bracketed to the studs at top, bottom and middle strictly to keep the verticals from ever moving.Re: “Out of curiosity, did you ever think about buying a LOT of 2" X 6" X 16' and running them horizontally bracketing those to every vertical stud?”I did not. I took advice from a guy who had built all the bookshelves at a large local thrift store. He knew what he was talking about and stressed the importance of keeping the shelves short. He sent me a photo, (below) of what he built in his own house. He used metal pegs, btw, same as me. Unless my wood is too soft, I don't think they'll give me any trouble. My shelves will be considerably shorter than most of his.

Thanks for the questions and great comments!



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The above is a reply to the following message:
Re: Bookshelves
By: Zimbler0
in 6TH POPE
Sun, 13 Oct 24 4:06 AM
Msg. 59358 of 59728

Hey De,
Were those 8' boards two inches thick?

Books are HEAVY and I'm not too sure pegs will stand up to the strain.

I would suggest a 'router table' for slotting the verticals where the shelves go.

Something else my Daddy told me a long long time ago . . The back of a bookshelf is where a LOT of the strength comes from. Strength to keep the shelves from bowing.

Daddy helped me make some bookshelves probably near forty years ago . . .
The top three shelves are for paperbacks - eight inches tall. Besides the paperbacks there is an Analog Science Fiction from 1994 and they all fit nicely. The next shelf is ten inches tall and the bottom two are twelve inches tall. The three lower shelves are all a real 10" deep. (Custom cut at a place called Yukon Lumber. Mahogany.) The paperback shelves are all six inches deep.

I'm pretty sure I ran a row of nails down the length of each shelf through the back and into said shelf. And no sign of bowing in the boards.

Decomposed > The verticals will be bracketed onto every stud of two stretches of wall,

I thought wall studs ran vertically?

Out of curiosity, did you ever think about buying a LOT of 2" X 6" X 16' and running them horizontally bracketing those to every vertical stud?

Zim.


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